The Seoul of Asia: Notes From My Fall Trip to South Korea

Originally published on Endless Horizons; travel series commissioned by Fadzrul

In fall 2013, I ventured to Seoul with my fiancé to celebrate the end of the year and mark the close of my first adventure as a freelancer/entrepreneur. While four days wasn’t quite long enough to take in all of Korea, we did see a lot of sites thanks to the city’s walkable neighborhoods and extensive transit network. Here are a few things I enjoyed during my trip. 

1. Cheonggyecheon

Running through a majority of the city, the Cheonggyecheon is a perfect escape from the urban hustle of Seoul. Its lush greenery and running water are a nice compliment to the urban world at both of its sides. The most endearing feature I found about this area is its ability to create an almost uninterrupted walkway.

WARNING: Don’t try to bike it! I tried during my trip and was politely asked to leave my bike on the streets above.

2. Korean Food and All the Sides

Diets are ill-advised during a trip to Seoul. From hot noodle soups to traditional bulgogi beef, the options are endless and the flavors robust enough to satisfy the appetite of most eaters. It’s worth mentioning however pricing varies greatly depending on the neighborhood you’re in. During the last night of my trip I ate in Myeongdong and experienced sticker shock. Price for Korean BBQ and other staple foods were vastly more expensive than outlying areas.

3. Urban Fabric with a Bit of Natural Thread 

Often travelers are forced to choose between uber modern metros and more humble historic cities. Seoul is one of those rare places which effortlessly ties the two together. Traditional temples and homes sit adjacent to modern skyscrapers with looming mountains and trees lining most backgrounds.

Two of the most fascinating examples include Bukchon Hanok Village and Gyeongbokgung. Both are close to the city, yet thanks to careful planning don’t feel foreign or out of place within modern Seoul.

4. Forget the Disconnect

People looking to “get away from it all,” will get a quick reality check once entering Seoul. The city oozes technology; automation is almost at every turn. Glitzy signs direct visitors to nearby shops, live transit updates are provided via monitors in the subway, and WiFi is literally everywhere – even deep underground. I was personally impressed to see WiFi transmitters aboard subway trains and installed on phone booths. If you take a moment to look up, you’ll often see many Seoul residents on their smartphones.

5. Hospitality
From our host at our Hanok outside of Insadong to local shop owners and everyday people, Seoul is an incredibly friendly city. Most residents are also extremely accommodating to Americans or Southeast Asians who don’t speak a lick of Korean (PERSONALLY GUILTY).

I thoroughly enjoyed my trip to Seoul and would return in a heartbeat. No additional travel plans booked for the rest of 2013 but looking to add some US destinations to my schedule for the New Year. I’m eagerly waiting for my next trip.

Boudin Blanc History and Recipe

As a Northwestern with roots extending to the American South and Midwest, I've come to understand my family better through food. Last weekend I tackled making one of the Holland/Guillory Families’ more complex dishes, Boudin – a rice-pork sausage. The dish comes in a few varieties. The two most well-known are Boudin Noir (includes pig blood) and Boudin Blanc – the version popular with my family.

Boudin gained popularity in rural Louisiana as a method to preserve meat products. Traditionally the dish was made at a celebration called “Quedema –“a creole word roughly translating to fall harvest celebration. At the event 2 – 7 families would gather from around the area to help with the meat preservation. Starting as early as 4 AM, families would begin the process of butchering, cleaning, and cooking the livestock. Prior to the invention of refrigeration techniques all meat had to be salted following the butchering process to ensure it didn’t spoil.

After sitting down with my Granny to make the dish, I quickly learned how much labor Boudin requires. Minus the actual butchering of the animals and creating the base for the dish, it took my friend and me 3.5 hours to produce a handful of links. During the creation of the dish I was particularly astonished by the fact my Granny hadn't made Boudin her entire life. She only actively started making the dish when she migrated to Seattle in the 80s, encouraging words for amateur Boudin makers like myself.

If you’re interested in trying to make Boudin Blanc, I've provided a recipe below with instructions. Good luck; let me know how it turns out! 

[Recipe, backstory, and lessons provided courtesy of Mary Guillory, aka Granny – Matriarch of the Holland Family, Seattle Branch]

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Boudin Blanc Recipe

Ingredients
Pork roast (7 lbs)
Pork fat (4 lbs)
1 red bell pepper
1 green bell pepper
2 cloves of garlic
1 onion
Rice (1 - 2 pots)
Cayenne pepper (add according taste)
Salt (add according taste)
Pepper (add according taste)
Sausage casings
Thread
***Optional***
Pork liver
Additional ingredients can be added to the mixture to enhance flavor (add according to taste)

Cooking Instructions
Approximate Time Required: Six Hours; preparation recommended in phases
1. Boil roast and fat until cooked (add liver if applicable)
2. Grind together

Roast
Pork fat
Bell peppers
Garlic
Onion
(Add additional ingredients if applicable)

3. Cook rice
4. If frozen, defrost sausage casings
5. Put all ingredients - expect rice, into one pot
6. Add enough water into the pot to cook
7. Simmer on stove for 2 ½ hours
8. Add salt and cayenne pepper to pot (add according taste)
9. Combine rice with grinded ingredients in one bowl. Mix until blended
10. Add mixture to the sausage stuffer machine (electric option optimal)
11. Attach casing to the spout of the machine
12. Fill sausage casing until full
13. Tie both ends of the sausage with thread and set aside on separate plate
14. Repeat steps 10 – 13 until you exhaust available ingredients
15. Boil a full pot of water
16. Submerse sausages into water for approximately 2 minutes
17. Serve sausages

Storage Notes
Eat within a week of making
Store in fridge
Freeze leftovers